Admittedly, I am completely new to the bathhouse in general and to a Hamam in particular. In fact, I had never heard this word or knew the meaning until yesterday. Afterwards I felt similarly to when I snorkeled in Belize for the first time...the feeling that there is a world behind a world that you didn't know existed until that moment.
I was positive I would fumble throughout the experience, but if there is anything that travel has taught me it is that one must fumble to have the most exquisite of experiences. If we live protected, what good is it to live?
And fumble I did.
Luckily I had read reviews and knew the entrance was going to make me skeptical. Indeed it did. Truly located in what looks like a parking garage, I climbed the stairs past a gym and a karaoke bar and opened the door to the Hamam. I immediately was met with the strong scent of citrus. A long bar with large ornate tea urns greeted me upon entering. The receptionist checked me in and we agreed that I should also rent the "towel package" that came with two towels, a sarong, and flip flops in a plastic tote. She showed me the changing room, then led me to the Hamam. She explained that I leave my things on the shelf, I can wear the sarong if I like, I go in to the first steam room, then the second, then they would call my name. No soaps at all. Noted. (later I realized she meant no soaps in the SECOND room).
I changed, happy with my sarong (never have I been so grateful for a piece of cloth). Then I was VERY confused by the beautiful and ornate copper bowl. She had given it to me with my key inside it. I looked around and all the women who were changing had their keys in their bowls. Was I supposed to carry my key in this bowl? Was I supposed to leave this beautiful key-bowl in my locker? I tried asking some women. No dice. They looked at me very confused. So, I took the bowl in my tote.
I walked in to the first steam room and within seconds I realize that the bowl is a CRITICAL tool in the Hamam. It is used to splash water on yourself. I went back and scooped mine back out of my tote.
First of all, for all of you who can't get over the nakedness factor of this experience, yes, women were naked. However! There were also women in swimming suits and women in underwear. AND women with babies. Yes, babies! That was a twist I wasn't expecting. No one cared at all, not one little bit whether you were clothed or not. Everyone carried on with one another as if they were at a coffee shop, only more playful. Mostly there were small groups of women, friends, sisters, mothers with daughters... I sat and first tried to keep the sarong dry until I realized that was not going to happen and watched around me thankful that others were not fumbling so I could mimic their actions.
There were giant marble basins with a hole on the side and large marble benches. Each small group sat near a basin filling their bowls and splashing themselves with warm or cold or very hot water. There was nothing delicate about the water splashing either. It was actually almost forceful splashing. And throwing bowls of water on one another as well. Babies sat IN the basins, laughing (and crying). When I saw women soaping in this room I thought they were breaking the rules (ha!) Later I realized that soaping in THIS rooms was permissible, just not in the SECOND room. Lots of products in this room. I almost felt silly without lotions or a facial mask.
The second room was just like the first only filled with VERY hot steam. This room was my favorite part of the Hamam. You could barely see your hand in front of your face. And if you got too hot, no problem! There was a basin next to you where you could splash yourself with cold water.
About 20-40 minutes into the steam rooms, I was called out for the "skin scrubbing." It was just as painful as it sounds. A woman who meant business with her loofah gloves does just want you might imagine. On a marble slab. She also splashed me with warm water a few times. This whole part took maybe 10-15 minutes. Then off to the steam Hamam you go again.
I made my way out to the dry sauna eventually and also to the relaxation room in the back with large lounge chairs and soft blankets. I hadn't had breakfast and it was close to noon. I was also very thirsty and very uncertain about how to go back out to the tearoom to get something to drink. So, I dressed quickly and went out to the front room.
I ordered a tea and was told I had 5 minutes before my massage (whoops!). I had no idea how the system worked. The massage therapist came and called my name. I took a few sips of tea and back I went to change again. She was very concerned about me drinking tea before the massage, "this is what you do AFTER." Like I said...fumble, fumble.
The massage was excellent. Nothing new or confusing there. One hour of complete relaxation.
THEN I changed again, for real this time. And THEN I had tea (and cookies) one last time in the tea room before I packed up and was on my way.
I sat in the tearoom and I marveled at all the women gathered in the space. There was not one type of woman or one language. Sporty women, women with head scarves, older women, younger women. How they were all so comfortable both with one another and with the strangers around them. It was a very accepting and communal space. It was beautiful and moving.
I'm leaving out a few minor details that would best be delivered over drinks so I can see you cringe in real life. But truly, it wasn't a scary experience. It was beautiful. Women taking care of one another. As it should be.
If you go: Sultan Hamam
I was positive I would fumble throughout the experience, but if there is anything that travel has taught me it is that one must fumble to have the most exquisite of experiences. If we live protected, what good is it to live?
And fumble I did.
Luckily I had read reviews and knew the entrance was going to make me skeptical. Indeed it did. Truly located in what looks like a parking garage, I climbed the stairs past a gym and a karaoke bar and opened the door to the Hamam. I immediately was met with the strong scent of citrus. A long bar with large ornate tea urns greeted me upon entering. The receptionist checked me in and we agreed that I should also rent the "towel package" that came with two towels, a sarong, and flip flops in a plastic tote. She showed me the changing room, then led me to the Hamam. She explained that I leave my things on the shelf, I can wear the sarong if I like, I go in to the first steam room, then the second, then they would call my name. No soaps at all. Noted. (later I realized she meant no soaps in the SECOND room).
I changed, happy with my sarong (never have I been so grateful for a piece of cloth). Then I was VERY confused by the beautiful and ornate copper bowl. She had given it to me with my key inside it. I looked around and all the women who were changing had their keys in their bowls. Was I supposed to carry my key in this bowl? Was I supposed to leave this beautiful key-bowl in my locker? I tried asking some women. No dice. They looked at me very confused. So, I took the bowl in my tote.
I walked in to the first steam room and within seconds I realize that the bowl is a CRITICAL tool in the Hamam. It is used to splash water on yourself. I went back and scooped mine back out of my tote.
First of all, for all of you who can't get over the nakedness factor of this experience, yes, women were naked. However! There were also women in swimming suits and women in underwear. AND women with babies. Yes, babies! That was a twist I wasn't expecting. No one cared at all, not one little bit whether you were clothed or not. Everyone carried on with one another as if they were at a coffee shop, only more playful. Mostly there were small groups of women, friends, sisters, mothers with daughters... I sat and first tried to keep the sarong dry until I realized that was not going to happen and watched around me thankful that others were not fumbling so I could mimic their actions.
There were giant marble basins with a hole on the side and large marble benches. Each small group sat near a basin filling their bowls and splashing themselves with warm or cold or very hot water. There was nothing delicate about the water splashing either. It was actually almost forceful splashing. And throwing bowls of water on one another as well. Babies sat IN the basins, laughing (and crying). When I saw women soaping in this room I thought they were breaking the rules (ha!) Later I realized that soaping in THIS rooms was permissible, just not in the SECOND room. Lots of products in this room. I almost felt silly without lotions or a facial mask.
The second room was just like the first only filled with VERY hot steam. This room was my favorite part of the Hamam. You could barely see your hand in front of your face. And if you got too hot, no problem! There was a basin next to you where you could splash yourself with cold water.
About 20-40 minutes into the steam rooms, I was called out for the "skin scrubbing." It was just as painful as it sounds. A woman who meant business with her loofah gloves does just want you might imagine. On a marble slab. She also splashed me with warm water a few times. This whole part took maybe 10-15 minutes. Then off to the steam Hamam you go again.
I made my way out to the dry sauna eventually and also to the relaxation room in the back with large lounge chairs and soft blankets. I hadn't had breakfast and it was close to noon. I was also very thirsty and very uncertain about how to go back out to the tearoom to get something to drink. So, I dressed quickly and went out to the front room.
I ordered a tea and was told I had 5 minutes before my massage (whoops!). I had no idea how the system worked. The massage therapist came and called my name. I took a few sips of tea and back I went to change again. She was very concerned about me drinking tea before the massage, "this is what you do AFTER." Like I said...fumble, fumble.
The massage was excellent. Nothing new or confusing there. One hour of complete relaxation.
THEN I changed again, for real this time. And THEN I had tea (and cookies) one last time in the tea room before I packed up and was on my way.
I sat in the tearoom and I marveled at all the women gathered in the space. There was not one type of woman or one language. Sporty women, women with head scarves, older women, younger women. How they were all so comfortable both with one another and with the strangers around them. It was a very accepting and communal space. It was beautiful and moving.
I'm leaving out a few minor details that would best be delivered over drinks so I can see you cringe in real life. But truly, it wasn't a scary experience. It was beautiful. Women taking care of one another. As it should be.
If you go: Sultan Hamam
Sounds fantastic and so glad you had the experience !
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